The process behind John & Lily's Ring: Designing and Creating a Bespoke Sapphire Engagement Ring

John booked an appointment with us online through our website and came in for a bespoke consultation. His fiancé-to-be had sent him many images of designs and styles she liked so he already had some idea of what he wanted to create but he wasn’t certain on the exact design and needed guidance. During the consultation we realised that most of the rings involved sapphire so we made the decision that we would feature sapphires as the main gemstone. Then we moved on to the actual design.

To help him choose the ring design we looked at the types of rings she sent, talked about her to get an idea of her personality, and discussed current jewellery styles she likes to wear to further understand her style. If your partner wears more minimalist jewellery currently or tends to lean away from wearing larger, bolder styles, we can guess that she would prefer a more minimalist and classic style engagement ring such as a solitaire. In this case the John's partner tends to frequently wear jewellery. We spoke about how she occasionally wears two-tone jewellery, and we concluded that she likes statement and unique items. Using this information, our jeweller, Dijay, and John worked together to decide on a final style. After confirming John was happy with the direction we were headed, we settled on the design.

Having an initial design decided, the next step was finding the perfect centre stone. We had two further appointments for him to come in and look over sapphires in person. When comparing these we predominantly focused on the colour and size, as we only selected high end sapphires to look at. Sapphires come in a range of shades, from pale blue to deep rich blues - to tones of violet, and they vary in levels of vividity. During these we looked at 6 different gemstones, two of which are pictured above. From the design we chose there was discussion about the sapphires featuring a dark centre stone fading to lighter side stones, or a light centre graduating into darker sapphires. Taking into consideration his partner’s style, some of the engagement ring inspiration she sent him, and looking at the options in front of him, John decided a lighter centre was more suited. Eventually he chose his favourite sapphire to feature as the centre stone which was the right colour, size, and tone of blue to fulfil his vision.

  

After our initial meetings, John proposed some small changes and edits. As the expert, Dijay had to provide honest guidance on what would realistically work. Collaboration between a jeweller and customer is crucial to create a final piece that not only aligns with the customer's vision but is also crafted professionally to ensure durability. Sometimes, a design idea may seem appealing in theory, but it might not achieve the same look in practice; this can be challenging to discern without experience. Therefore, it’s essential for your jeweller to offer honest, straightforward advice and insights so they can bring your vision to life. When John suggested a different cut for the stones, we explained which options would not provide the desired effect and the reasons behind it. We then presented him with the cuts we recommended, allowing him to choose his preferred option for the best final outcome.

The next step was to create a CAD image (Computer Aided Design). We use this to create the structural layout of the ring and plan out the sizes needed for other side stones. It gives us a illustration of how the finished ring will look and allows us to adjust elements of the design ensuring they fit the final vision. Although CAD designs can give you a clearer visual idea, it’s important to remember it is not an exact image of how the final product will look. CAD’s are generally bulkier and more blunt than the final engagement ring as this will be filed, smoothed out, and finished by hand in our workshop. The CAD is mainly used for the structure, shapes, and measurements of the design before it is polished and perfected. 

Once John was content with the look of the design, we knew what measurement side stones and accompanying diamonds we would need. The following step was to begin looking for matching side sapphires in the ideal shades of blue. John wanted the design to showcase the selected lighter centre stone, gradually transitioning to darker hues with the accompanying side stones. After personally choosing the centre stone and engaging in extensive discussions about the design through numerous appointments, emails, and phone calls, he felt confident entrusting us with the task of selecting the perfect side stones for his engagement ring. We took our time searching through a large variety of stones to find the correct sizes and ensure we got the right tones of sapphires to execute the design exactly as discussed and imagined.

Once we had all the components it was time to begin making the ring. We had a strict deadline to work to, ensuring the ring was ready in time for their planned holiday, where John intended to propose.

To craft the bespoke ring, we begin with casting the design in the chosen precious metal(s). In this case we cast the band and sapphire settings in 18ct yellow gold, while casting the diamond halo setting in platinum. Once the ring is cast, we move on to a crucial quality check where we ensure that the structure is sound, and all components are accurate without any imperfections. This is a pivotal step, as it guarantees that the ring will not only look beautiful but also stand the test of time. Once we confirm that the casting is perfect, we proceed to file and clean up the ring, preparing it for the next stage of assembly.

With the casting in pristine condition, we focus on assembling the engagement ring components and setting the stones. Once the stones are securely set, the ring is polished to achieve a flawless finish. This final touch not only adds brilliance but also allows us to conduct a last check, ensuring that every element of the ring is correct and meets our high standards of perfection before it is proposal ready!

 

The exquisite final ring features emerald and baguette-cut sapphires that gracefully taper at the sides while deepening in colour. The stones are bezel set, beautifully highlighting the rich 18ct yellow gold, while they are encircled by a dazzling diamond halo. The platinum setting around the diamond halo enhances the brilliance of the diamonds, allowing the diamonds to shine without any added warmth and it creates a subtle two-tone look to the bespoke ring.

John was absolutely thrilled with the final product when he collected the ring in person from our London studio. Check out his reaction to his first look at the completed engagement ring over on our instagram.

On September 30th, John popped the question…and his fiancée Lily couldn't be happier with her ring! They shared this stunning photo below with us right after. Congratulations to you both from us at Avita Jewellery! It was a pleasure working with John, and we look forward to finally meeting Lily when they come in for their wedding bands.

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